They've already replaced a fuel pump on my car in this condition and talked to me about it, and they don't really care, but wont help me clear the codes.Īnd before any safety nannies come in and tell me to reattach the battery clamp, don't even bother saying anything. Dealer wont do anything because of 'liability' issues. No matter what I've tried: "Error is currently present. I'll deal with the fallout of it going off in my battery compartment if I do get in a wreck if it happens.
Take a guess: it threw a code Ok, no big deal, I thought - reconnect it and clear the codes with my handy dandy BT cable. I, regrettably and for whatever reason, decided to completely remove the clamp from the car - it weighs a couple pounds and I'd rather not have an explosive device that's not installed at all, still ready to go off in my car. I've opted to leave the battery clamp attached to that connector so as not to trigger codes. There's a yellow and black cable connecting to what I can only assume is simply an electrical trigger for the explosive battery clamp. Now come the airbag warning lamp shenanigans. I now have one completely unused 0-gauge port that I can use for my amp or additional battery link-ups, and the existing wiring has an even better connection to the battery - Excellent. Somewhat overkill, but I want it like that. I have also replaced the entire battery clamp with one that has three 0-gauge outputs. If you disassemble it, you'll find that all of the electrical current for the auxiliary fuses where most people are attaching their amplifier wire to has to flow through one rivet through a two sheets of aluminum that are in loose contact.
BMW sells a repair kit which comes with a connector, pins, and wiring.Remember Me? Private First Class. Replace the connector which should fix your issue. Without this disconnection, the airbag module sees a lower resistance than needed to clear the code. Tyler, The connector tabs push on the shorting bridge inside the BST. What scanner are you using to clear the codes? You may need an Autel, Autoland or Autologic to clear the codes. Wondering if the Airbag control module was replaced? That condition is common and will give you that code. Tyler, Check to be sure the connector is not shorting out when connected. Do you have a source for these connectors? Or getting them from dealer. In my experience,it is quite often the connector you are holding on the third picture. Tried two different scan tools both snap on starting to wonder if the scan tools are letting me down on this one neither will clear code. The shorting bar is on the battery safety terminal and is intact. I have tried shorting this connector as well and the code never changes. I put a resistor in place of safety terminal and the voltage below is what I see on either wire. I found the connector is damaged but still seems to be making connection and have one on the way but I am not confident it will fix this car. Split large text fileĬode will not clear. The battery safety terminal has been replaced with factory bmw part and the body shop has tried one off of a known good car. From my research it looks like this is a basic squib circuit 2 wire in the event of an accident it blows and disconnects part of the positive battery cable. Only code that is left is a 93B2 for battery safety terminal. BMW E90 2006 airbag and beltbuckla light faultcode 93AB 93B2 Battery safety terminal I would replace the connector but I'd have to buy a parts car, to buy knowledge you can't find that connector to buy.Hey guys have a Bmw xi coupe, body shop car multiple airbags deployed all replaced recently. My guess is that the BST is bad or it's just not making good connection with the property connector. Cut at the damage, strip new wire, solder together, insulate with heat shrink, and did my best to fix the plastic connector.
Yea that was just lazy writing by me, I did the whole job. The whole effort took maybe 10 minutes from start to finish and I am not very handy with soldering iron at all. Went to Pick-n-Pull and got about 12 inches of the wire and the connector, soldered it in, cleared the code and lights were gone. After poking around in the back, I realized a couple of strands of the red/blue wire (most likely the same you have, just different colors) were broken from where it was zip-tied to one of the positive cables. My 06 had airbag and seat belt lights on when I bought it and also got code for BST.
Why not take the five minutes more to do it properly and solder it? If you don't have soldering iron, you can get kits off Amazon for 15-20 bucks and if you don't know how to solder, YouTube is full of how-to's. Just putting heat shrink over the broken wire is not going to do anything.
I did my best to fix it and reconnect it (heat shrink on the frayed wire and glue for the cracked plastic)